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Plans for the High Power Magnetic Pulser
First a little history about the magnetic pulser. I had Lyme disease for about twelve years. I had tried everything under the sun without any success which is the same story that everyone else has. I heard about the Doug machine, and found someone in Ohio who had one. I did about ten sessions with this machine but did not have any positive results. I’m not sure why, but I always had the feeling that the machine didn’t have enough power. I had read a story about someone who had wrapped wire around themselves and then ran electricity through the wire and had results from whatever was ailing them. I had begun construction on one of these devices and then abandoned it before it was finished. I’m not really sure why I decided to abandon the project other than I just didn’t really feel well. After about a year I caught wind about a Yahoo group with people who were trying to build a similar device from the same article I had read. Since I still had the beginnings of the machine I had started a year earlier, I decided to once again pursue the completion of this machine. The rest of the story is pretty much history. I built more of these machines, refining the design over time. Ultimately, the machine would evolve into quite an elaborate electronic device. I continued to build these machines for about six years at which time I no longer had the desire or the time to continue the work. Rather than see all of this progress lost, I have decided to offer these plans for sale. These plans are for the original High Power Magnetic Pulser which some people feel was even better than the the latest electronic versions I was building. This type of mechanical pulser would certainly create more erratic frequencies than the electronic counterpart. Let’s continue now with the Instructions for building your own pulser. If you need assistance I can be reached at: orders@harmony4life.net Sincerely, Robb
The first step in building our magnetic pulser, is to buy all the components that we will need. Most of the components are readily available in any retail hardware store or home center. You’ll also need to get a few things at your local auto parts store. To save yourself time, try to get everything you need in one trip. When you go to buy the supplies that you need, this would also be a good time to get yourself a good battery, or two, for when the pulser is finished. Probably more than anything else, people have asked me about batteries.
Buying a battery is not really that hard of a task. You can use virtually any battery on the market as long as it is 12 volts. You could also use six volt batteries if you wanted to but it makes things easier if you just use 12 volts. Concerning amp hours, anything above 25 amp hours will be just fine. (just about every car battery in existence is going to be big enough to run this machine, so if it doesn’t have the amp hour rating, don’t worry about it.)
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1. Solenoid. Any solenoid relay for a 70’s era ford vehicle should work just fine. If you ask the guy at the parts store for a starter relay for a 1976 ford pinto, you will get the right part. Below is a photo of this part.
2.
Wire for the
coil. You will need 125 feet of thhn insulated solid core wire. This wire can
be bought at any home depot or lowes, or your local hardware store. In many
places, this wire is about half price per foot if you buy the entire roll.
Since it usually comes in 500 foot rolls, you could get enough for 4 machines
and only pay half of what it would cost if you bought the pieces seperately.
If your only building one machine, the cheapest way would be to just let the
store cut 125 feet for you. Here is a picture of this wire. 
The
color isn’t important. Get the color you want.
3.
You will need 7
feet of 12 gauge 3 conductor extension cord. (without the ends). 3 conductor
means that it has 3 wires inside. Usually the wires inside are white, black
and green. Picture: 
4.
Flasher unit. You
will need one EL-12 flasher unit from your local autoparts store. It is
important to get this exact model. The brand name is usually Tridon. Picture:
5.
One 12 volt
circuit breaker. This breaker needs to be 40 amps and can be found at most
autoparts stores. At napa, the brand name is Echlin but any brand name will
work. Picture: 
6. You will need about 20 feet of 20 gauge automotive wire. The color isn’t important, black or red is probably the easiest to find. Most automotive stores should have this on hand. No picture needed, if you ask for what I have described, you’ll get the right thing.
7.
One red aligator
clip. You can get these at radio shack. You will have to probably buy a
package of them, but it really needs to be red since it indicates “positive”
when you connect the machine. Part Number: 270-375 Picture: 
8.
One package of
loop end terminals for 20 gauge wire. These are usually pink in color which
signifies what size wire they are for. The loop size is for #10 size bolt.
(this will fit on the small pole of the solenoid) Most automotive stores, or
Radio Shack or home depot should have these. Picture: 
9.
One horn button.
Most autoparts stores will have this and sometimes even walmart. Here’s the
picture: 
10.
One 25 volt 220uf
radial electolitic capacitor. These can be purchased online at Mouser
Electronics, or usually at Radio Shack. It is important to get as close to
these specifications as possible. Picture: 
11.
Spade connectors
(female) for 20 gauge wire. These need to be ¼ inch spade terminals to fit the
EL-12 flasher unit. (listed above) They also should be insulated as shown in
the photo. You just need one small package of these. You can get these at
most autoparts stores or Home Depot – Lowes stores. Picture: 
12.
10 or 12 guage
wire loops connectors. These are generally yellow in color and the loop needs
to be 3/8 inch in size. You need a package of about 10 of these. Any
autoparts store or home improvement store will have these. You just need one
package. Picture: 
13.
2 feet of (your
choice) 10 guage or 8 guage or even heavier wire. For ease of construction,
10 gauge is probably a better idea. But you will also need loop ends for
whatever size wire you decide to get. You will need ends for 3/8 inch bolts
size and also for #10 size loop holes. The size for 10 guage 3/8 is shown
above under number 12. These plans are showing 6 gauge wire and terminal ends,
choose whatever is easiest for you to find. Pictured wire and ends for 6
gauge: 
14.
Marine battery
terminals. You need one set. They are usually black and red and if you have a
choice get one of each. Easy to find in an autoparts store. Shown are the
terminals for top posts. If you are planning to use a different type of
battery you will have to get the terminal type that you need. Picture: 
15.
One battery
terminal pigtail. Only needed if you want to run your machine at 24 volts
instead of 12. You can buy these but its easier to make one. The battery
terminals that you need are determined by what type of battery you get. These
plans are for batteries with top posts. Picture: 
16. Black electrical tape. You will need one roll and possibly two. Not expensive. Buy it anywhere. 3M tartran is the best but still not important enough to go searching for that brand.
Gather all needed materials before proceeding.
Please allow us time to answer your questions. Please include your phone number so we may call you about the problem.
The High Power Magnetic Pulser is Patent pending. Inventor: Robert C. Allen
It is unlawful to build machines for profit without a licensing agreement.
It is unlawful to distribute these plans or copy these plans without a licensing agreement.
Copyright Harmony4life 2010